Almost
everyone that buys a new or used car looks at the purchase as a single
transaction. But it’s not; it’s THREE transactions. Those are (1) Getting the
lowest price for the used or new car you have decided to buy. (2) Getting the
highest price when you sell your trade-in. (3) Getting the lowest interest rate
when you finance your purchase.
Car dealers depend
on you looking at the purchase of your car, the trading in of your old car and
the financing as one transaction done with them. This allows them to sell you a
new car at a very low price (even below their true cost) if they can get your
trade-in for less than it’s really worth. The vernacular that car dealers use
for this practice is “stealing the trade”. The same thing is true if they can
finance your purchase at an interest rate higher than normal. Car dealers get
“kick-backs” from banks when they charge an interest rate higher than the
lowest interest rate the bank offers. In fact, car dealers make more money from
the financing of cars than they do from the cars they sell.
Car dealers
know that most prospective car buyers have a “hot button” when it comes to
buying a car. With many it’s the monthly payment. With some it’s “How much can
you allow me for my trade?” Some are mainly focused on the price of the car
their buying. Some are actually focused only on how small a down payment they
have to make. With others, it’s the lowest interest rate. The salesman’s job is
to find your hot button. Once they know that, they can give you what you’re
focused on, like high trade-in allowance, but still make a much bigger profit
on the overall transaction than you should be willing to pay.
You’ve seen
and heard the advertisement. “$3,000 Over Kelly Blue Book for your
trade-in, Minimum $10,000 trade-in if
you can push, pull, or drag it in, or We need your (fill in the blank of any
year-make-model) and will pay you $5,000 over book.” All those ads are designed
to do are get you into the dealership based on your hot button. They can
actually give you a high trade-in allowance just by marking up the car you’re
buying enough to offset how much extra they give you for your trade.
The same
thing sort of trickery applies to any one single hot button. A low monthly
payment can generate a huge amount of profit to the dealer with a long enough
terms (84 months for example) or a high interest rate. A low price on the car
you’re buying is offset by “stealing your trade”, allowing you thousands less
than your trade is really worth. A low down payment leaves the door open too. You’ve
all seen the 0% financing ads, but this means nothing if you overpay for the
car you’re buying or let go of your trade for too little.
The only
save way to get the lowest total transaction price is to negotiate each price
separately…the car, the trade-in, and the financing. When you’re shopping for
the lowest price for your car, tell the car dealers you don’t have a trade-in
and you’re paying cash. When you’re shopping for the highest price on your
trade-in, tell the car dealers that you don’t want to buy a car, just sell the
one you have. When you are shopping for the lowest interest rate, check with
you own bank or credit union and another bank or credit union for their best
rate before you ask the dealer what his lowest rate is.
After you’re
armed with all of this information, go to the car dealer who offered you the lowest
price on the car you want to buy. Then ask him if he can meet or beat the
highest price you have quoted on your trade-in. Similarly, ask if he can meet
or beat the lowest rate you have on your financing. When you’ve done all this,
you can be assured you have the best total transaction price. There’s
one caveat on the trade-in. In Florida, you pay 6% sales tax on the difference
between the trade in and the price of the car. Therefore the dealer you trade
the car to can be 6% lower than the high bid on your trade from another dealer
and still match it, because you will lose the sales tax savings if you sell your
car to another dealer since you won’t have a trade.
Don't forget extended warranty where the dealers make extra profits. (No account, so "Anonymous".)
ReplyDeleteYou're right about dealers making extra profits on extended warranties. They also sell maintenance agreements, road hazard insurance, roadside assistance, and many, many more "products" that you should be very careful about purchasing. All of these are presented AFTER you've already bought the car when you're signing the papers in the business office. Never buy anything until you fully understand what you're buying and what the total cost is. Don't let them tell you that you have to make your decision then. You can always go home and think about it.
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